Last Weekend in Ghana

This week marks the end of the spring term for us at the American Cooperative School. Beginning last Thursday, we have had exams i.e. I've been proctoring for two hours chunks each day i.e. I've been sitting on my butt doing nothing for two hour chunks each day. The subjects include the standards: English, Math, Natural Science, etc. Others include R.M.E., Citizenship and Creative Arts. R.M.E., which stands for Religious & Moral Education, teaches the basic foundations of the three major religions in Ghana: Christianity, Islam and Traditional. Citizenship is probably best described as the equivalent of an American Health class; they learn things like the dangers of drugs and the importance of interpersonal relationships. I haven't yet sat in on a Creative Arts exam but judging from the lessons, students just try their best to draw a scene from one of the stories they read in English class.

After spending the weekend grading exams, I realized the gaping disparity between my own American education and that of Africans. The average English score for Stages 4 and 5 probably fell around 50. If I remember correctly, 50 is a failing grade in American elementary schools. Not so here. As long as you get above 34%, you pass. It's not uncommon, however, for students to be held back a grade or even demoted. There is a 12-yr-old in the fourth grade and a 13-yr-old in the fifth (in the States, they should be in 7th and 8th grade, respectively). At the risk of being pedantic, education really is an important - if not the most important - determinant between developed and developing countries. In Ghana, where the vast majority of the economy is based in agriculture, school standards just aren't the same.

One of the most memorable things I saw while grading was on an answer sheet for an English essay. The student had no idea what to do so he started like this: "Dear Sir, I would like to write for you a poem." (I guess it was written for the English teacher, Sir David. Not me.) The student followed with a two-stanza poem about some bees in trees. It wasn't all bad, but I was still gave him a zero.

This was also my last weekend in Ghana so I tried to buy some 'Ghanaian' things to bring home. I went to Bonwire, a town about twenty minutes from Effiduasi, which is famous for its kente weavers. Kente cloth, which is intricately hand-woven, is central to traditional Ghanaian culture.

When I was in Accra, I met a guy from Bonwire named Phillip and he told me that if I ever wanted kente, I should give him a call. Unfortunately he wasn't in Bonwire this weekend, but he called some colleagues, Elvis and Bright, and told them to meet me. (Note to self: Consider 'Elvis and Bright' as a name if I ever form a band.) Phillip told them to give me a 'family price' which is key since many sellers overcharge when they see foreigners buying kente. I ended up buying a matching (custom-made!) set of kente clothing for my host mom and dad as a thank you present.

Obviously I was already grateful for the special treatment I was receiving. When I arrived in Bonwire, Elvis was literally waiting outside my door when my cab pulled into the station. And when I got to the store, Bright upturned the place, pulling out practically every pattern they carried so I could choose my favorite. The pattern I ended up choosing wasn't completely sewn yet so they stopped the tailor in the middle of his job, gave him my fabric and made him complete it while I waited.

But the hospitality didn't stop there. When it came time to pay, I didn't have enough cash on me. I had to travel to Kumasi, a 40-minute journey, to get to a bank that accepts a Visa debit card. I told them I would return within two hours.

Okay, pause. A couple facts you should know: 1) I live in Effiduasi and 2) Effiduasi is between Kumasi and Bonwire. Ergo, on my way back to Bonwire to pay for my kente, I would pass my hometown.

Bright, knowing these facts, decided he would go with me to Kumasi so he could save me that extra trip. He rode with me the whole way! It took nearly two hours. He even paid for the bus fare. Who does that?!

As I prepare for my departure, I know I will miss Ghana. I've had a great time and I've met some really great people. If there's one thing Americans can learn from Ghanaians, it's hospitality. So for all you reading this, take notes!

(Re: hospitality, see also March 22nd post 'The Ghanaian Way'.)